Sewing Technique

Using this sewing technique, you can learn how to sew a double patch pocket very quickly and easily.  The pocket can be any shape or size you want.  Even beginners can sew this pocket.  Make it in dress weight wovens or in suit weight fabrics.  The choice is yours.  You are the designer!  Now here is the sewing technique.

Instructions 

1.    Make a paper template or pattern of the size and shape pocket that you want to sew.  Allow 1/4 inch seam allowances all around the pocket.  Draw a grainline on the pattern.  Keep the pocket pattern for future garments.

2.    Cut out one piece of fabric the size and shape you wish your pocket to be using the pattern above.  This will be your outer pocket piece.

NOTE:  If you want to interface this pocket piece, now would be the time to do that. You can use fusible or sew-in interfacing depending on your fabric.

3.    Place the outer fabric pocket on top of a scrap of fabric, matching the grain of the first pocket piece and having right sides of the outer pocket together with the right side of the scrap of fabric.  For suit weight fabrics, use lining fabric for this second pocket piece.  This will be your under pocket piece.  Pin the layers together well and do NOT cut out the under pocket piece yet.

4.    Stitch the two layers together 1/4 inch from the cut edge sewing all around the entire pocket.  Go over the first few beginning stitches at the end to secure. 

5.    With the outer pocket piece on top, press the 1/4 inch seam allowance toward the pocket so that it stands up.  Pressing now is easier to do and will set the seam on the edge. 

6.    With the under or lining fabric pocket facing you, cut 1/4 inch from the stitching, making a seam allowance on that under pocket piece.

7.    Cut the seam allowances off of any corners, cutting at an angle; clip into any inside points and inside curves, if present. 

8.    In the center of the under pocket piece about 1 inch from the bottom edge of the pocket, cut a diagonal slit about 1-1/4 inches long cutting through only the under pocket piece.  (A diagonal slit will not fray since it is on the bias.)

9.    Turn the pocket right side out through the slit.

10.  Press the pocket well with the seam on the edge and the slit facing up at the iron. 

11.  To close the slit, slide a 1/4 inch wide strip of fusible web cut a little longer than the slit in between the pocket layers at the slit and press to fuse in place.

12.  Topstitch the edge where you will be putting your hand into the pocket.

13.  Pin the pocket to the garment and topstitch in place.  The slit is hidden inside.

Top Secret Sewing Tip:  If the pocket is worn over a curve on your body, lay the garment over a ham/cushion or your body to pin the pocket in place.  The pocket will lay better on your body when you wear the garment than if you pinned it with  the garment laying flat on a table.  Your body isn’t flat, is it?  No more “pulled” looking pockets!

It just makes sense!

Enjoy sewing pockets of all shapes and sizes.

Think about using this sewing technique to make all sorts of shapes to use as appliques, etc.  To attach the applique to a garment or other sewing project, use your sewing machine blind hem stitch.

Try the blind hem stitch when sewing your pockets onto your garments for an invisible or hand stitched look instead of topstitching.  You’ll love it! 

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Marian Lewis is a sewing instructor and the creator of an amazing new fitting method for hard-to-fit sewing folks. In her ebook, “Common Sense Fitting Method For Hard-To-Fit Sewing Folks Who Want Great Fitting Skirts And Pants”, find out step-by-step WHAT you really need and HOW to apply that to commercial sewing patterns for fitting pants and skirts . It just makes sense!

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This entry was posted on Wednesday, November 1st, 2006 at 10:56 am and is filed under Sewing Techniques. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.